Happy Thanksgiving, Teacher!

First of all, the months of November and December make up my favorite time of year. This year all of the normal sights, sounds, and sensations of Thanksgiving and Christmas are no longer surrounding me. However, I have experienced a lot of the holiday season already through Face Time...how grateful I am for technology (when it works!).

On Thursday, the last day of the work week here in KSA, I walked into my morning class like every other day. As I set my bag down and began pulling out the attendance sheet, one of my students said, "Happy Thanksgiving, Teacher!" I was so surprised, but so happy to hear this greeting from a student in a place where the outside world is usually forbidden, unknown, or both. What a joy to start my day! I then asked the class if they knew about Thanksgiving. Most of them nodded slightly, knowing they had heard the term somewhere, so I briefly explained the concept of the holiday in the USA. It's always a joy to share part of myself with students who are curious to know.

Even though my parents are spending a month in Alabama, I still am able to visit the compound on weekends, and so I can weekly escape what I have come to call, "my box," fondly referring to my apartment, of course. Open windows and long walks are something I look forward to every Thursday!

Thanksgiving here is like any other day, but on the compound, the few Americans (who are almost all from Texas), celebrate together. Some of my parents' friends invited me over on Friday to eat and spend time with them, and it was a blast. The food was delicious, and the company was both entertaining and comforting - how nice to be eating Murican food with Murican people. It really was a gift. :)






We all have so much to be thankful for.

- Courtney

Relocation, relocation, relocation.

Well guys, I moved!

Me in my new place!

Long story short is living on a compound is very expensive, and the housing allowance from my company no longer covers it. That means that we are out on the town! All of the teachers (there are about seven of us) are now living out in the city just like locals. It is closer to the school, but we are now subject to all of the rules and regulations that apply to Saudis. Whenever I walk out of my apartment, I have to be wearing my abaya (robe). No gym, no mini market - however, our driver Khalid is wonderful and lives close by, so he'll take us where we need to go. The freedom of the compound and easy access to the gym are definitely something I'll miss, but I can adjust.

The transition was no piece of cake - finding a place, weighing pros and cons, and moving in - none of which went smoothly. I've had a couple meltdowns along the way. However, we are here now and working out the issues! One day at a time. I feel blessed to have people helping me and being with me through this transition, and I'm starting to make my new apartment feel like home, even though when I first got here I had no idea where to start.

We rented the apartments unfurnished (meaning no A/C, no furniture, no appliances). So it has definitely been a lot of work getting everything together. I appreciate our driver Khalid so much, and of course my mom and dad (Mr. Fix-it)!

Here are some photos to illustrate...I am not posting the ones from when we first saw the place. Not worth seeing, as the apartments were still under construction. Now, they are "finished," but I remember my dad's first comment when we walked into what would be my new bedroom: "This room isn't...square." And it's true! Nothing is square or level or neatly done (paint on the tile and door frames, etc.), but it is inhabitable now, and I'm so much more grateful for things that I usually take for granted!

Outside our building (it's the one on the left)

Cool front door - there's a plus! The stairs go up to our hallway, where there is another locked door (so we basically have one whole floor of the building, which is three apartments).

The Eastern version of a shower is just a shower head mounted on the wall. Bathrooms here are "wet rooms." We were lucky to get more than a hole in the floor though! Very thankful. Always having flip flops/shower shoes and a squeegee in the bathroom is very necessary. No more bath mats!

This is my storage closet off the main hallway in my apartment. It has no ceiling. Looks like a prison on one hand, but it's also kinda cool, especially during the winter with the breeze.

I may have a roommate soon, and her bedroom/bathroom is separate from mine. We also got a washer/dryer that is all one machine!! So crazy. You put your clothes in, add detergent, configure the settings, then push start, and the clothes come out dry! I may have to separate clothes a lot more than I used to, but it's exciting! The machines are made in Korea.

My kitchen from the living/dining area

My room! A work in progress.

The living/dining area with a tiny tiny window. Carpet to come.

So that's my major update! What a crazy week and a half it has been, but I'm starting to make it feel more like home here, and it's just temporary.



With a thankful heart,

Courtney

Day to Day

Once you settle into a new place, life is life, and people are people. Living on a compound here really does give me comfort and convenience for day to day things like working out, getting groceries, and doing laundry. All of those things are a short walk away from my villa.

The work week is Sunday through Thursday (recently changed from the previous Saturday through Wednesday work week). This still adheres to the Islamic calendar, while giving more opportunities to businesses that operate internationally. Not much work gets done between different time zones if the shared work week is only a couple days.

During the week it's nice to have set times to go to and leave work. That way, when I'm home, I'm free to do extra class prep if I want, but otherwise I just relax and get things done around the house. On weekends it's nice to go out and shop, eat and spend time with people.

Me and Mom out on the town!

Shaorma - chicken, french fries, sauce, and a pickle wrapped in Arabic bread. Delicious.

Spices being sold at the markets in town. Those are cinnamon sticks on the right!!

I'm a rebel. Therefore the loose fitting, non-black scarf. Only women from other countries wear colors other than black. I've been told that this obsession with black isn't technically a rule; it's just the cultural expectation. 99% of Saudi women (at least where I live) cover their faces in public, and at least half of them veil even their eyes. The only place that's an exception to that would be the more multicultural city of Jeddah. Most western women just wear an abaya (the robe) and bring a scarf along in case the religious police make a fuss, but I usually feel more comfortable and more respectful of the culture and of the other women if I cover my head. So it's a personal decision - it's not enforced for non-Saudi women in most parts of KSA.

I'm really grateful to be working hard, but also enjoying this whole new world! There is so much more I could write about, but trust me that this life is equally challenging and rewarding.

- Courtney

5 Minutes

(My jeans peeking out from under my abaya)

As I began setting the clocks in my villa, and as I also started checking both my Saudi cell phone and my American smart phone for the time, at first I thought it was me. Then, I thought maybe the battery in my watch had died...but I just replaced it, so that couldn't be. Finally, I checked my two phones at the same time, and noticed that they were a little less than 5 minutes different. I was a little shocked, but again, I thought it was just my phone.

It wasn't.

The clocks here actually are 5 minutes behind the time that it says on smart phones and computers. At the school where I teach, every hall clock says something different. That means that on my computer I have one time, on my watch I have another, and walking down the hall to my class, I see yet another time.

There isn't anything I can do about it - and I've noticed that conveniently, the students expect me to go by the US clocks (5 minutes earlier) in the mornings, and by the Saudi clocks (5 minutes later) in the afternoons. That way, we can all be 5 minutes late to class in the morning, and leave 5 minutes early at the end of the day. I'm not even sure if this was ever a conscious decision - although it does make me wonder if a Saudi prince somewhere changed the clocks just for kicks - but it really does reflect a completely different attitude towards time.

In five minutes, a lot can happen.

In five minutes, I can pack a lunch for the day.

In five minutes, I can put my hair up into a ponytail and brush my teeth.

In five minutes, I can gather class materials and take them to my classroom.

In five minutes, we can recap the day's lesson.

In five minutes, I can take a deep breath, put in my headphones, and listen to a song to refresh.

In five minutes, I can make a cup of coffee.

In five minutes, I can copy handouts for class.

...and the list goes on.

In the American mindset, five minutes difference represents lost time, and therefore lost productivity. But here, it doesn't seem to matter. No one really seems to care about it. At first it was driving me crazy, and just for my own sanity I had to choose which clock I was going to go with... now, I'm working on a balance.

Honestly, it reminds me that "time" is something people came up with...even Ancient Egyptians had time telling devices and sun-based calendars. Then in our times came GPS and atomic clocks. My experiences here so far have made me re-think many things, including my perception of time and the priority it has in my life.




- Courtney

Smooth Sailing

Today actually felt like vacation! It was a beautiful, warm, peaceful, sunny day. We went to Half Moon Bay on the Arabian Gulf and spent the day on the beach at the private yacht club there (sounds fancy, but we are just blessed with friends who are members and are willing to take us). We went sailing, had a nice lunch, and saw some dolphins! 

Because the beach is private, we can wear whatever we wanted, and it was peaceful and clean. The workers there were really helpful, and it felt like the beach was ours. I also learned a little bit about how to sail! It was amazing, and it's harder than it looks, y'all. The conditions can change in an instant, and you have to be so connected to the boat, the waves, and the wind. It was such a fun adventure! In the picture below, I'm on the sailboat on the far right with our friend and skipper/sailboat master ;)

Below is just a shot of the yacht club logo. 

Below is the comfy waiting area at the restaurant a little ways from where we were sailing! The food was delicious, especially after being in the sun and salty water all day. The water was so salty and rich in minerals that it left a thin coat of salt on my skin and clothes! I had never been in water quite like that before. I never appreciated fresh water more than I did when washing my hair at home today.

Me and my parents, representing Bama! 

:)

And here are a few more shots of the sailboat and the beautiful scenery there. 

I wish the picture below could capture how close we actually were to the dolphins, but you just had to be there. It was an incredible experience for me! On the sailboat, the dolphins would play in the water right in front or next to us as we sailed, and they were almost close enough to touch. As we waded in the surf (which is really calm water...hardly any waves), the dolphins were playing and swimming around in the shallow water about ten meters in front of us. What a beautiful sight.

I'm so grateful for today! It was a lovely experience in every way. The freedom of walking barefoot along the beach, learning a new skill, and being around such beautiful nature was all such a blessing!  

Courtney

Holidays in Saudi

An observation about holidays: to the people of this culture, the holidays or "Eid's" are religiously significant and socially exciting days, but to me it's just another day. The same goes for spending holidays like Christmas here - to the people here, it's a normal day - but to me it's one of the most meaningful days of the year. All this got me thinking. What is a holiday, anyways? It's a day that we look forward to. It is full of memories (both happy and painful ones), so it makes us extremely nostalgic, extremely depressed, or some of both. It's a time to spend together with the people we love. There are traditions, special foods, beautiful smells, and joy. This is true of every important holiday I know, whether in the U.S.A. or anywhere else.

For this Eid AlAdha, the festival of sacrifice in Islam, which celebrates the faith of Abraham and commemorates the end of the Islamic Hajj or pilgrimage to Mecca, I enjoyed observing the celebrations around me. There is food, dancing, and more food. Speaking of the food, I also felt very sorry for all of those poor sheep that were slaughtered. It's very similar to how I feel for turkeys on Thanksgiving Day in the U.S. Me and my parents were driving home on the Eid, and we saw a truck driving next to us with several sheep in the back. My mom so sensitively observed, "They're going to their deaths!" And my dad responded, "Well, at least they don't have to walk."

Tonight there is a festival for the families on the compound, and I'm looking forward to having a feeling of community. It can get a little desolate here during holidays because most people take the time to travel and leave the country for a little while.

One thing I respect about Saudi holidays is that they know how to take a vacation. When they have time off, it's off. No thoughts of work or the responsibilities that await them at the office. In the U.S. I think we have forgotten how to slow down and set work aside. Although the work ethic here may not be what I'm used to in the U.S., there is definitely something we can learn from the perspective of having a higher priority of living and enjoying life. From being in a completely new extreme, I think I'm beginning to see into a balance of the cultures.


Eid Mubarak! Kul 3am wa entum ba5eir. (Happy Eid and best wishes for the year!)

 !كل عام و انتم بخير...عيد اضحى مبارك

Courtney

Safe and Sound

I just wanted to take today to remember that even though life may not always be pleasant and convenient, and even though adjusting to a new place has its hardships, for today I have my family and my safety, and I'm so grateful for that.

Look at this area of the world. Search any news site or channel, and many of these names will come up frequently. (Warning - soap box ahead - A note to reading news: check multiple sources, cross reference facts, and try not to read too many things that you already agree with...challenge yourself to be balanced in your perspective. There's a lot of propaganda out there. I'm still learning how to be a smart researcher. - soap box over -)

So here I am! I feel so privileged to be here, and I am realizing more every day how few people see into this window of the world. It's going to be a very challenging year, but I'm excited to learn, to grow, and to see what comes of it.

I hope everyone is having a good week so far!

With love from KSA,

- Courtney

Teacher, I have a question.

Today was like a breath of fresh air. Even though I have been experiencing jet lag, sleeping very little, and feeling overwhelmed, today I was so grateful for the energy to keep going.

After getting over the shock of yesterday, I was able to settle into the schedule today and enjoy the beautiful girls that I'm so privileged to teach. They are in between the ages of 17-25, some are just out of high school, some are married and pregnant, some are trying to get a job with their English skills, and some just want to get out of the house and learn. I am looking forward to getting to know them more as they learn! It is overwhelming at this point to think of even learning all their names - I have two classes with 30 students each! But, I hope I'm up for the challenge.

Something I enjoy about these Saudi girls is that they will celebrate any time that they can. They look for excuses to bring sweets and goodies to class to share. Today they were supposed to do a role play using their family vocabulary from the past week. They had drawn their own family trees, practiced introductions, and written party invitations. For the role play, they acted out the invitation process and preparation for a family reunion party, and the role play was complete with music, food, and a real party when they finished. They insisted that I try everything that they had brought - grape leaves, pastries, cake, Arabic coffee, juices, chips...there went my lunch break! It was great to sit and talk to the girls while we ate. They had so many questions for me! Somehow being an American is a novelty, and because I'm young it makes them even more curious about me. One girl asked, "Teacher, I have a question... can I take a selfie with you?" That was not at all what I expected, but of course, how could I say no? Then, as soon as she took the picture, 29 other smartphones came out of nowhere, and suddenly I was awkwardly trying to let them take a picture if they wanted, but also asking them to put away their phones. Khallas! (Enough). It is such a strange experience to be interesting just because of where you're from.

I wish I could post pictures of the school and the girls, but that would be breaking their trust. You'll just have to take my word for it - they are unique and beautiful.

Below is the cake with the theme of Saudi National Day:

After the party was over, I had flecks of green glitter lingering on my face from the mask that they gave me to wear. Today, in addition to learning, we enjoyed the simplest of things.

Now it is time for Eid AlAdha, which is the second of two national and Islamic "Eid's" (holidays). That means two weeks off for me to recover and prepare for the long haul - no more breaks until February! 

Take care, everyone!

- Courtney

Chaos and Comfort - A Strange Combination

Well, I'm here!

I'll save you details of my journey here, but it was long. Flying alone across the world isn't my favorite thing. However, I met some nice people along the way, and 3 airplanes, 1 train, and 1 taxi later, I finally made it!

The Sea of Marmara from the airplane as we landed at the Istanbul airport.

Landing in Turkey :)

The first night in KSA I stayed in Riyadh. A modern, well-developed city with bad traffic, but great views. The schedule while I was there, however, was ambiguous at best. To survive in this country, you have to assume that no one has all of the same information, and that it's up to you to figure it out. Ask questions, and stay flexible. 

The compound I'm staying at is beautiful, small, and comfortable. Most of the workers here are from the Phillipines, India, Pakistan, and Indonesia. Communication is interesting, but English is used throughout the compound. A unique thing about this compound (owned by the Nada Dairy company) that my company rents from is that no Saudis are living here or even allowed on site. Maybe with an invitation as a visitor it would be okay, but I haven't figured that out yet. 

One odd thing about my "villa" (basically a one bedroom condo) is the voltage and plugs. Some are 110 volts, some are 220 volts, some have the Saudi funky 3-pronged receptacles, and some have the American 2-pronged receptacles. Mixing and matching just means having lots and lots of adapters!

My living room:

Street view

My bedroom! The sheet being used as a curtain is temporary.

My wonderful parents came and helped me clean the entire villa...it was nasty. Lots of scrubbing, vacuuming, and sweeping was involved, and there are still a few things that need cleaning! Once we got it aired out and washed, it started to feel like home.

And classes started today!! The college is under some construction right now, but the offices and classrooms are clean and decent, and everyone I met was very nice. The system and schedule are chaotic and my days will be a frenzy most times, but the students are wonderful. It's nice to be reminded why I'm here.

So amidst the chaos of the cleaning and being thrown into teaching, it is so comforting to have a reassurance of my purpose, and to have such caring parents nearby. 

- Courtney

Resources

As a part of this blog, which is intended to be an overview of my time and experience in Saudi Arabia, I hope to inform friends and family of what's happening, show where I've been, and give some insight into what it's like to be a foreigner in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

In my own journey I've already discovered some other helpful blogs, sites, and books that I think could be helpful to anyone thinking about going to KSA:

Here are some great blogs:

Blue Abaya
Foreign Girl
Saudi Scenes
My mom's blog (Elise's Saudi Stories)
Black Chick in Saudi


Here are some books:

Insight into the future: Caryle Murphy's Saudi Arabia Through the Eyes of Its Twentysomethings
Because we need some guidance: Understanding Arabs: A Guide for Westerners
Travel and culture tips (it's a whole new planet, and there are a lot of helpful books on travel and culture out there, this is just one example): Culture Shock! KSA
For insight into Islam and how Muslims process their world: The Crescent Through the Eyes of the Cross

I think it's really important to learn about the people you will encounter wherever you're going, and that includes not only what the rules and regulations are, but also how those people see the world around them, and how that impacts the way they relate to each other. 


Vocabulary you should know:

Arabic is a difficult language to pick up - especially the written and formal standards - and even though a lot of Saudis speak English, there are a few survival words/terms that I think everyone should know.

1. Asalaam wa'alaykum = Peace be upon you
2. Wa'alaykum asalaam = and also upon you (the response to #1)

*This is the greeting you will hear repeatedly as a tradition of expressing respect through greeting.

3. Enshallah = lord willing

*This is the answer for everything! Will it be done by tomorrow? Enshallah. See you soon! Enshallah. Can you pick me up at 6pm? Enshallah. The original intent for "enshallah" was to allow God's will to be recognized constantly. For example, if I say, "See you later," but I die before we see each other again, "enshallah" allows for God's will to be above people's plans. This is obviously a phrase rooted in Islam, which is not only the religion of KSA, but also the way of life and the foundation of the government (it's a very interesting topic, but too much to go into here). Now, the phrase is unfortunately a bit misused in that, as my dad says, it has come to mean: "If I don't do it, God will!"

4. Alhamdillah =  thanks be to God

*This is the answer to "how are you," and also a response for many other questions. Good or bad, you can always say, "Alhamdillah."

5. Shookran = thank you; Afwon = you're welcome

*It's good to be grateful. However, a cultural note: "thanks" is not nearly as commonly used in Arabic as it is in English. My beautiful Egyptian friend Nehad once told me, "Thanks should only be given to God, so don't thank me. This is my pleasure."

6. Masalaamma = goodbye

7. Sook = store/shop

8. Tai-yeb = okay

9. Gahawa = coffee

*This "g" sound is technically a "q," but listening to Arabic speakers in KSA, it sounds like the English "g." Also, assume you're talking about Arabic coffee unless otherwise specified. It's a centerpiece of Saudi culture, and a must for any hospitable host. 

10. Eewa or Ee = yes, La = no

*"Naam" is the formal word for yes, but you'll most often hear "eewa" or "ee." It's kind of like  the Arabic versions of "yep" and "yeah." 

Since there isn't really a shortcut to learning a new language, it's good to just have a few key words. Maybe most people aren't language nerds like me, but I think it's a worthwhile challenge to learn as much of a language as I can. A very important note is that any of my information on Arabic is based on what I pick up in Saudi Arabia. Arabic is different in different countries.


I hope this information is helpful :) Masalaama for now!

-Courtney

Preparing to Go

Saudi Arabia is not a country named in the typical, everyday conversations among most Americans (at least outside of Fox News). However, through various ways in the past few years, this place has become a home for my parents, and will now be where I have my first major teaching job overseas.

I am aware of the challenge that I face, but I am equally happy to take on this new adventure in a totally different world. Where I'm used to jumping in the car in my shorts, t-shirt, and ponytail, and going to Rite Aid on a whim where I can find anything and everything in familiar brands, I will now be in a place that is a bit more complicated. The rules and culture are so different, and even though it will be hard, I feel so privileged to enter into such a closed place. Saudi is a beautiful country, and I enjoyed my last visit there a lot. Now I'm committing to making life work there on a longer term, and that is going to be a challenge to say the least, but I'm really excited and I feel very honored.

Here's a snapshot of my last visit there (to see my parents who live there, and my friends):

From what I've experienced so far, getting there is the hardest part. 

The visa process is complex and long, so here are some tips for any of you who are thinking of applying for a job in KSA or for a visa to go there:

1) Be aware of the Multiple List Syndrome (not an official ailment, just my endearing terminology). It's a Saudi specialty. Don't just stick to the requirements you see on the first list you download. There may be another secret list somewhere, so look out. For example, if you see a list on the embassy website, make sure to check the Saudi Arabian Cultural mission website for forms and lists too, and also check directly with your employer.

2) Usually, the difference between what someone tells you and what the reality is might be bigger than you think. "Lying" is of course not something Saudis support openly, but telling someone what they want to hear, or just ignoring a problem, is often what is substituted for telling you what's really going on. The motivation for that is not evil, it's just a way of avoiding the unhappy truth, or avoiding doing more work. Make sure you don't take someone's word for it the first time - ask a lot of questions. Just don't ever accuse someone of lying or being lazy - be respectful and keep trying to figure out what's happening.

3) If you call the embassy/SACM/other offices, and no one answers, keep calling. No answer doesn't mean they're out of the office. Be as persistent as you can, and you'll get something accomplished! My version of persistence is calling every 5 minutes and just enjoying a cup of coffee while I'm listening to the ringing, and my phone is set to speaker. 

4) Don't get discouraged by passing deadlines. Treat them as hopeful completion dates, and just go with the flow.

5) If you haven't heard from anyone in a few days, don't just wait. Keep calling, emailing, and making sure that they know you need updates and progress. It's okay to be annoying as long as you are respectful, grateful, and polite.

6) Remember that in getting a visa for KSA, there might be a lot of hoops to jump through, but if you persevere, you really will make it. Don't allow yourself to get frustrated with details.

7) Some things they ask (like the 9+ passport photos they require) won't make total sense. Just comply and remember that it's just part of it. 

I hope the above tips don't come across as cynical. The reality is that it just takes some effort, and most importantly, flexibility. You have to know that you want to work there for a reason, and always keep the bigger picture in mind. Don't forget the bigger purpose, and remember that it can be an incredible and rewarding experience if you keep a realistic but positive attitude.

Saudi Arabia is not what the media would like you to think - not everyone rides a camel to work, no one that I have seen (except the military, who are there for our protection) carry machine guns, and so far I have not met anyone who was not at least open and curious about what people from other places are really like. They have a great sense of humor, a love of coffee and conversation, and a deeply rooted love of tradition. Extreme? Yes, but not in the way I expected. Like every place, there is both beauty and darkness.

I'm ready for this adventure teaching English in a new world, but it is of course overwhelming and scary at times when I think about how different it will be from how my life is now. Just like Aladdin asking Jasmine before their first magic carpet ride, I hear the question, "Do you trust me?"

-Courtney